Sunday, September 5, 2010

Train Again

Photograph@Arijit Sen--All Rights Reserved

The Hill Queen zigzagging to Halflong, North Cachar

Sunday, August 29, 2010

On a train to North Cachar

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After Nagaland was in Delhi for a while. And then travelled to North Cachar in the hill district of Assam. What a fascinating train journey in the metre gauge line! More on the journey and North Cachar in the next posts.

Inside Nagaland

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We took National Highway-39 and crossed Senapati district. Crossed Mao Gate. Reached Kohima. From Kohima travelled inside Nagaland to meet Thuingaleng Muivah in Pughoboto for a long interview. In this photograph my cameraman with Muivah after the interview.

Back to Imphal

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We got back to Imphal. Met people from the valley. Most of them disgusted with this economic blockade ( which was on then) and also with New Delhi. Here we are talking to Rajkumar Ranendrajit.

Somdal

In Somdal in the hill district of Manipur, we met a lot of people. Some still waiting for Thuingaleng Muivah to visit his home. This is the road just outside the village

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Friday, August 13, 2010

Waiting for Jesus

Photograph@Arijit Sen--All Rights Reserved

Noticed this is in Ukhrul. In fact in a lot of other places as well.

From Ukhrul we travelled to Somdal, then travelled back to Imphal. From there to Senapati district of Manipur and then to Kohima. This is the news documentary we did on the 68 day Manipur blockade.

Towards Somdal

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We travelled to Somdal, a village in the Ukhrul district of Manipur. It's also the birthplace of NSCN-IM General Secretary Thuingaleng Muivah. Rains and more rains on the way

Ukhrul

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Think it was Fathers' Day celebration that Sunday

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Those who braved the rain and reached for Sunday church

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June rains in Ukhrul, when we reached. Am told the weather is like this through the year.

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

Trapped In Time?

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Travelled to Ukhrul, the hill district of Manipur. Met people who had imposed the economic blockade along National Highways. Underdeveloped and cut off from the rest of the nation, Ukhrul, almost, stays trapped in time. Pretty much like these posters in the town.



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And what we have seen so many times in different corners of Northeast India. On a Sunday, it is time for church ( in this case, braving the June rain and the June cold).

Saturday, August 7, 2010

Manipur: June 18

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Back from Calcutta to Assam and then headed straight to Imphal. Reached on June 18 in Manipur--a day observed as Martyr's Day. When we reached Imphal, it was still battling the effects of the 68-day blockade by Naga outfits. And at the time of the economic blockade the gathering of people in Imphal for June 18, was a reminder how clash of communities and identities can go out of hand, destroy lives and divide people, like it did in 2001. On June 18, 2001, 18 people died in the clash between central forces and a mob protesting the extension of ceasefire with the NSCN-IM to Naga areas in Manipur.

Photograph@Arijit Sen/CNN-IBN shoot/Tomba--All Rights Reserved


"The day is being observed when Manipur is again in turmoil on account of the fear of losing the territorial boundaries of Manipur to NSCN-IM in their hope of greater Nagalim to the utter neglect of the people of Manipur," Professor Sadanand, of the Senior Citizens Forum told us.



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Indifferent Industry

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I was in Calcutta in June. Went to report on the civic elections. Then stayed back for a week as help was needed in the CNN-IBN Calcutta bureau. From elections to the beginning of the football World Cup, to the updates of a train derailment it was interesting to report from the city. But one report that will stay with me is the one on sick industries in Bengal. During my stay in the city, Railway Wagon maker Burn Standard got Rs 1,000 crore loan writen off from the Cabinet Committee on Economic Affairs. Burn Standard had turned sick 16 years ago. Both the Left and Trinamool claimed credit. We travelled inside Burn Standard in Howrah. The spectacle that is a combination of politics, trade union, neglect that has killed industry in Bengal was evident. Even with the loans written off, the future seems trapped in all these.


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That is Swapan Roy, one of the oldest employees at Burn Standard. For him the celebrations had little or no meaning--at least that's what I felt. "Today, I am remembering my co-workers many of whom had no other option but to jump from the sinking ship in despair. Just 500 of us stayed back". With elections round the corner, there is a newfound love of industry in Bengal. But for West Bengal to come out of an industrial coma will require more than promises and votebank politics.

Thursday, April 22, 2010

To Sikkim And Back

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Sikkim University, a 32 month university held its first convocation in Gangtok. I was most happy to be part of this grand moment. (Photograph) Gangtok from the hotel window.

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The Kanchanjunga remained in a hide-and-seek mode for those ( like me) who woke up at 6 and not at 5 am.

Carnival

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Rongali Bihu in Assam is "a unique new year festival. In reality it is a carnival" This photograph, was taken at Karbi Anglong district of Assam.

City By The River

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Best part of Guwahati is the river

The Kaziranga Trail

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Was most happy to have Sapta ( dear old friend) in Assam just after Bheblu, Priyo, Beq and Sue left. Our little friend is in love with Sapta. Look at the photograph.

Sunday, April 18, 2010

Bitter Tea

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Trade Unions, Tea bodies and the government in Assam have decided to give an increment to labourers in tea gardens. All this has been done probably keeping in mind the state elections in 2011. Sadly, post-raise it appears that the trade unions have stayed on in negotiations as a yes-body. The wage increment is just one small example of labour exploitation. Not just Assam and tea, it is a trend across India.

Photo@Arijit Sen--All Rights Reserved

Photo@Arijit Sen--All Rights Reserved

Photo@Arijit Sen--All Rights Reserved

Photo@Arijit Sen--All Rights Reserved

These labourers, asked us for money half-jokingly when they were being photographed. The tea industry not just in Assam but across India has come out of a slump after almost 10 years. When we met the top policy guys in tea, they said that it is a labour intensive industry and wages should not judged on the basis of money alone. We were told that there are also a lot of other benefits ( like subsidised ration/medical care) given to the workers. And now a raise.What is the raise amount? Rs 18 over a period of 45 months. How will the raise play out. In the first 15 months, the raise will be Rs 8. In the next 15 months, the raise will be Rs 5. And as a third and final installment Rs 5 will be increased in the next 15 months.

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Sombaru works in a tea estate in Assam. A gentle, welcoming and helpful soul, he looks after labourers involved in plantation. A supervisory position that gives him the title of sardar. We met him near Kaziranga. When informed that the wages of daily labourers have been increased from Rs 58 per day to Rs 66 per day, he was clueless. We found out that wages are often paid in these gardens not on a daily basis and only per week. Subsidised ration that the labourers are entitled to is also not up to the mark.

Saturday, April 3, 2010

Picture Yourself On A Boat In A River

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Majuli is the world's largest fresh water mid-river deltaic island. That's what everyone says. But some are not too sure about the claim. Majuli was once, 1,200 square kilometre. A web search and recent satellite images reveal that the island is now anything between 577 and 875 square kilometre. As Amar Grover writes in 2006, December issue of Geographical, " each year several square kilometres of the island, simply disappear"



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This 100 feet long monstrous boat does three trips from Nimatighat to Majuli every day. We took the 10.30 am ride.


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Everyone is up and ready to be in Majuli after a one and half hour ride on the Bramhaputra


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Sunayana and her son Rahul with the happy group of women from Majuli. It appeared that they are regulars on the boat, old friends---travelling on the Bramhaputra, in and out of Majuli.


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Krishna--the icon of the island? Some say that Majuli is the epicentre of culture in Assam. Probably, all began when in 16th Century, social reformer Srimanta Sankardeva came here and began spreading a more accessible form of Vaishnavite culture.


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The boat moves. And those who are on it everyday, go about their routine. For them it might be just a boat and just a journey.


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When do I cross the river? My journey, it continues and continues.

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Overwhelmed at/on being photographed. (Sunayana and Priyodorshi noticed this). Most of them appeared to be followers of Krishna( or at least a deep faith in Krishna's divine powers), some of them were widows. On a 90 minute boat ride, we hardly got their stories. Stories probably hidden behind their smiles and helpful nature.

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Between a journey and a book

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Beautiful woman on the boat(II).

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On the river, from our boat

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A journey we have talked about and finally we are on the Bramhaputra.

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We start for Majuli

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The river we loved crossing

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And what all will cross the river? Motorcycles

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Bicycles

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Happiness is a river and a boat

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Nimatighat, Jorhat

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Inside the boat. Masks, Mising huts and the island. Crossing the Bramhaputra is just a matter of time.

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Beautiful woman on boat (I)

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Friends

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And friends

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And river and boat

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get set go! for Majuli.

(Link to a 1998 report on the island)